Sights and Walks in Kazbegi mountains and villages

The Kazbegi region (a part of a bigger geographical region called Khevi) is situated in the north of Georgia, close to the border with Russia in the north and South Ossetia in west. It is a part of the northern slope of the Caucasus range and encompasses the Tergi, Truso and Sno river valleys. The center of the region is the village of Stepantsminda (formerly called as Kazbegi, don’t get confused!) at the foot of Mount Kazbek (5033m). This beautiful mountain region is easily accessible, it takes only 2,5 hours by car or a local minibus from the Didube bus station in Tbilisi. The public transport takes you to Stepantsminda; a private car or long legs are needed for reaching most other places in the region.

In this chapter we have listed a variety of different walks and sights in Kazbegi. Some of them are easily accessible and can be done within a couple of hours, while others need a bit more planning and transportation. Our aim here is to give you some ideas about how to spend your time in the most enjoyable way in the region. For more detailed information ask locals or read it up. Among many travel books we find these quite useful: Bradt’s “Georgia with Armenia”, Peter Nasmyth’s “Walking in the Caucasus” and Haeberli/Harter’s “Under the Eagle’s wing”.

Tsminda Sameba church (also known as Gergeti Trinity church)

The trinity church was build in the 15th century and has been Khevi’s most important prayer place There are several possibilities to get to the church. Keeping left in Gergeti gets you up via the small ruined watch tower, going right you can choose between the jeep track and several steeper tracks. At the church you are rewarded with stunning views of Stepantsminda village and the Kuro Mountains.

Gergeti Glacier

This trail is about 10 km long starting from the village of Gergeti. After reaching the church a further climb through alpine meadows takes you to the Gergeti Glacier. The Glacier is over 7 km long and ends 2950 m above sea level. The glacier always seems to be closer than it really is. Don’t be tricked, start early!

Meteo Station (base camp for summit of Mt Kazbek)

After reaching the Gergeti Glacier you have to cross the glacier and continue climbing another 800m to reach the Meteo Station where you can spend the night. The Station is a huge building, it is located on a dramatic cliff overlooking the glacier. If you go up don’t forget to take some “spirits” with you, they will ensure you a warm welcome from the local operator. Climbers use the Meteo station as a base camp for getting to the summit.

Devdoraki Glacier

This trail starts from the road leading from Stepantsminda through the Dariali Gorge. Use the chance and make a little side trip to the small and scenic Gveleti waterfalls before coming to the beginning of a foot path. While climbing slowly up through a birch forest which is rich in sub alpine forest vegetation you are rewarded with fine views of the glacier. After coming out of the forest there are some avalanches that need to be crossed – this is quite challenging and should be done only by experienced hikers.

Darial Gorge

The highway enters this famous gorge just a few kilometers north of Stepantsminda. Many stories are told about this narrow and wild part of the road. It’s also famous for bird watching. Shortly before the border to Russia there is a huge construction site—the second biggest monastery in the whole country is being built here and will be one of the major attractions of the region once it is finished.

Tsdo Village

This small settlement about 5 km walk from Stepantsminda is resting on a ridge like an eagles nest. Almost deserted you will find only a few people living here during summer. But the place is alive though—with the humming of thousands of bees.

Little Church in Stepantsminda

This is a nice walk that one can do without any transport huzzle. Just go up through Stepantsminda towards the Kuro Mountain range. Behind a little forest this newly build church is situated at the foot of the mountain massive. It’s a good place to see the sunset and also parts of the Gergeti glacier are visible from here.

Arsha Village

Start walking from Gergeti south along the river. After 15 min you reach a small pool with mineral water perfect for a summer cool-off. Continuing on your way you get to the small settlement where there are two ruins of watchtowers that can be explored. Crossing the river on a metal bridge you reach Arsha (where you can find a good restaurant) from where it is possible to walk or hitchhike back to Stepantsminda.

Jutta Village

About 18km into the valley, accessible by foot, but more comfortably and faster by car, Jutta village lies at 2150 m and is the highest village in the area. Basically all inhabitants of this little settlement belong to the same family: Arabuli. They are very warm and good humored mountain people who decided to stay, even though the village is cut off from civilization during winter. Jutta makes a good starting point for the climbers paradise Chaukhi Mountains.

Chaukhi Mountains

The goal of this hike- the magnificent Chaukhi Mountains – is visible all the way. About two hours walks from Jutta village you find a climbers camp: a popular starting point for advanced rock climbing in Chaukhi, also called for climbers paradise or Georgian Dolomites. After reaching the camp you can continue climbing further up the valley.

Truso Valley

The trail starting from a village Okrakano leads to the source of the Tergi river. There are numerous mineral springs on the way, forming coloured patches. This is spectacular scenery with steep slopes of the glacier valley rising high above the defensive towers. Don’t forget to bring you passport, the valley approaches the territories of South Ossetia, usually there is a border post at Ketrisi village.

Upper Truso Valley

Hiring a Niva, you can drive as far as the village called Abano, deep in the valley. That’s a good point from where to continue on foot to explore the valleys—as far as boarder guards will allow. The valley was originally inhabited by Ossetian people, most of them started leaving the area during the 80s. By now most of the villages are abandoned – there are only some sheppards using the houses during the summer season. Everywhere you can find traces of a former well functioning social life.

Alexander Kazbegi Museum

The museum dedicated to the well-known Georgian 19th century poet Alexander Kazbegi lies a 5-minute walk away from the main square of Stepantsminda. The museum gives a good insight into the life of this pastoral poet and the life in Georgia on his time in general. Bring along a local friend – or a dictionary and a lot of patience. The information is in Georgian only—so take your local friends with you.

Museum of Alpinism

The small Museum of Alpinism is situated on the first parallel street above the town centre. The museum is often locked, but don’t hesitate to knock on the door of a neighboring Kasalikashvili family, they might want to open it for you. The museum offers a great insight into the kingdom of snow and ice of the surrounding mountains and some great photo material about the mountaineering tradition in Georgia.